Upping Lygon Street’s pizza game might sound like a bit ambitious – this is Melbourne’s Little Italy, after all – but the arrival of Garfield Pizzeria is already doing just that.
Named in honour of an orange feline that wandered onto the site during construction, the February opening of the retro-styled counter-service pizzeria on the storied King & Godfree corner, right next door to Pidapipó, is the vision of owner Jamie Valmorbida, who wanted to bring something quick, casual and fun to old Carlton, built for the neighbourhood first. The venue has introduced new techniques including the cross-cultural innovation known as the “Tokyo Stretch”, a dough-making technique pioneered in Japan that adds a surprising crunch to the light and airy base.
And let’s not forget the rotating Marana wood-fired oven, imported from Italy. In the hands of head pizzaiolo Sangsub Ha (Tazio, Aimo e Nadia) it’s the wheelhouse of a sharp, eight-strong pizza menu. Four red and four white balancing a few classics with options that are completely unexpected, taking cues from the inventive flavour combinations often found in Tokyo pizza shops.
In collaboration between the King & Godfree precinct’s culinary director Karen Martini (Saint George St Kilda, Johnny’s Green Room, Bar Carolina) and executive chef Mark Glenn (Cumulus Inc., Dinner by Heston, Pialligo Estate), Ha delivers the classics along with unexpected combinations taking their cues from the inventive toppings often found in Tokyo pizza shops.
The titular Garfield pizza – the venue’s signature – exemplifies the pizzeria’s approach. Inspired by a classic lasagna, it features traditional-style Italian meatballs, a generous serving of fresh basil, and a blizzard of parmesan on a base of tomato and bechamel sauce. It is rich, comforting and unapologetically indulgent. Then there’s the Tokyo Bianco, with a base featuring bechamel infused with katsuobushi (Japanese dried bonito flakes) to bring a smoky and briny depth. Just add house-made sweet chilli sauce, and top with raw tuna, finger lime and shiso after it comes out of the oven.
Designed by Dion Hall (HER, Supernormal, Johnny’s Green Room), the retro fit-out goes for a playful feel to the walk-in-only space. It’s the perfect neighbourhood hangout for a quick pizza and glass of natural wine, a relaxed catch-up, or takeaway to enjoy in nearby Carlton gardens and nature strips – with the option to dine in or takeaway via counter service and QR-code ordering.
As for KDPO, we love pizza and we also loved spreading the word about our new favourite hang. From announcement to opening, we secured more than 60 pieces of media coverage, with inclusions in Good Food, Broadsheet, AFR, Qantas Magazine, Urban List, Concrete Playground, Time Out and even a segment on Postcards.
